Fashion and Textiles

A New Fashion & Textile Gallery
 
 

Much more of the museum’s extensive dress and textile collection is now housed in a brand new, permanent Fashion & Textile Gallery. Combining historic collections with contemporary design, the gallery provides temporary exhibition space, a permanent chronological display of dress and textiles and a central ‘Glass Cube’, which is textile study centre. Embroidery, lace and quilts are stored here, allowing them to be accessed easily for study, by appointment.   It also provides a unique opportunity to view the curators’ working, and be invited into the ‘Glass Cube’ for talks and demonstrations.

The Glass Cube

The 'Glass Cube'

Using cutting-edge methods of display, garments are mounted on invisible mannequins, allowing them to be viewed from 360 degrees. Spectacularly lit, and placed in innovative free-standing glass structures, the dresses in the gallery provide an exquisite visual timeline of fashion, and serve to illustrate perfectly this collection of national and international importance.

                                   

                 Detail of display circa 1918      1930s Evening dress         17th Century display

 
 
The dress collection has been acquired since the Museum opened, mainly through gifts from local sources. It represents women’s, children’s and men’s clothing and accessories from the late eighteenth century to the 1960s. It includes particularly strong examples of women’s dresses from the 1860s and 1870s, examples of twentieth century haute couture, and a comprehensive series of wedding dresses.
 
           20th Century display 
                                            Wedding dress 1880              20th Century display
 
Highlights include bodices, jackets and shoes which once belonged to the Empress Eugenie, consort of Napoleon III, displayed for the first time in the new gallery. The Empress was the leader of fashion, known as ‘The countess of the Crinoline’, and was dressed by the leading couturier, Charles Worth.
 
1860 to 1920 display
 
The Design Award display is a rare collection of modern classics from 1957 to 1962. Of great importance to the history of British Design, it features style icon Lucienne Day’s 1957 Design Award for the carpet Tesserae.
 
Design Centre Awards display
Design Centre Awards display
 
Recent acquisitions include three stunning examples of haute couture, designed by Parisian couturier Madeleine Vionnet. Bought in conjunction with the V&A, London and the Fashion Museum, Bath, the consortium of museums managed to save nine dresses from export, after the government placed the first ever export ban on pieces of twentieth century haute couture.
 
Madeleine Vionnet dresses previously on display in the gallery
 
Background to the Fashion & Textile Collection
 

The museum’s textile collection was started by John and Joséphine Bowes, who were pioneers in the field of textile collecting.  They began acquiring 'antique' textiles to furnish their own homes, which led to the formation of one of the largest and most significant European collections in Britain. In buying for the Museum, they chose to represent all textile techniques and all the European centres of production, from the fifteenth to nineteenth centuries.
 
The collection includes a wide range of tapestries, and a collection of needlework seat covers. Other types of European embroidery include ecclesiastical examples from fifteenth to eighteenth centuries, seventeenth century English work and embroidery from the East. The Bowes’ also collected carpets, woven textiles and lace.
 
Later collections represent more regional themes: a large collection of quilts, part of a larger collection of quilted, patchwork and embroidered bedcovers, and flat-woven carpets, with examples from the nineteenth century carpet weaving industry in Barnard Castle.
 
The Bowes Museum now houses The Blackborne Lace Collection, containing important study collections and the remaining stock of nineteenth century lace dealers, Anthony and Arthur Blackborne, given to the Museum by their descendants in 2006. It includes many rare pieces including a cavalier’s collar of English needle lace from around 1635, making this one of the largest and most important collections of lace in the world.

In 2007, an important collection of vestments and textiles came from St. Clares Abbey in Darlington. They were donated by the order of the Poor Clares, who had brought them from Rouen, France, where the community ran a school for English Catholic girls, from 1644 to 1793. After the French Revolution the sisters were evicted from their monastery and returned to England.

                                                                                                           
Check the website for the current programme of display and events, workshops and demonstrations happening in the Fashion & Textile Gallery

 
Click here to see a film made exclusively for the gallery by Indigo Multimedia. Theatre costumier Luca Costigliolo explains how to dress a woman in a reproduction 1872 dress.
 
Primary school children watching Luca's film
Primary school children watching Luca's film
 
Visit the gallery's dedicated Facebook page by clicking here.
 
You can view more photos of the gallery by clicking here.    
 

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